Hoo boy. Where to even start. How about the bottom?
We got on a bus from Shinjuku station in Tokyo, which would take us to the fifth station of Fuji. As we approched the mountain, we could see clouds at the top, which made it look like it was wearing a big cloudy hat cocked to one side. Whimsical, but now that we were going to climb this thing, it was a little disturbing.
Some people will tell you that it's best to climb Fuji-san at night, so you can enjoy the sunrise from the top. Those people are on crack.
When we got to the station, there was a gift shop, a cheery song about how great Fuji is was playing on repeat. I'm trying to find it on the Internet to share the pain, but I don't know what it's called. (This song got stuck in my head. It's funny for about an hour, but then it starts mocking you by, oh, about hour six.) We tried to find a spot for my bag, but the lockers were *just* a little too small. Doh.* We tried to ask the gift-shop guy to watch it for 500¥, but he wasn't having it. Undeterred, we hid it on some stairs behind some boxes of souvenirs. Mondainai. (no problem.)
We got our walking stick, adjusted our lights, and we were off! See how happy we look?

That's not going to last.
As we ambled down the path to the first station, we got hit with a blast of wind. Not a light breeze-- this was like God herself giving you a shove in the back. Or the front. Or whatever direction you happened to be facing. The wind also brought a handful of volcanic grit straight into your eyes. Nice. Luckily, we had thought to bring masks. Mondainai.
Then Coleman's iPod froze. He had been looking all over Tokyo for replacement headphones so he wouldn't have to climb in silence, but now that he had headphones, the player was dead. Not that you could hear much through the wind, anyway.
As we got up to the first of the sixth stations, it started to sprinkle rain. We were prepared for this, and had thought to bring ponchos. Mondainai.
The rain got harder as we went on. Combined with the wind, it was actually raining sideways as we climbed over more boulders on the way up. On the up side, this meant no more flying grit.
On the down side, this meant that every surface of you that would have been merely gritty was wet instead. Also, every few minutes, we would hear the wind, and have to flatten ourselves against the rocks while the wind rocketed around us. Despite Coleman's insistence that "no one has ever been blown off the mountain," I was convinced that if we weren't getting blown off, then at least one of us would slide off and lose something/break something/die.
I lost track of the stations that we passed-- they were closed, or the guy inside would take one look at the people standing outside shaking, and tell us to move on. And then.. the boulders. No, it's not just switchbacks all the way to the top, there's some boulder climbing involved. It's challenging enough by itself, but in freezing rain, with wind blasting around you and your gloves shredded from the volcanic rocks and the shards of your bag flying in your face as you try to hold on to the god damn mountain... that would be a special circle of hell.
Around the one of the seventh stations, I sort of had a meltdown. See, I can deal with rain, cold, dark, wind, certain death, frostbite, but all of it at once? Not even I'm that tough. I knew this wouldn't be easy-- Coleman had described it as Mount Doom-- but it was more like Caradhras.**
After sniveling for a while in the bathroom--the station guy wouldn't let us into the station with the kerosene heater-- we finally got moving again after Coleman made a few good points. 1) we couldn't stay all night in the bathroom without freezing to death. 2) the start of the downward slope was only a few stations above us, and climbing up to chicken out there would be better than backtracking down all of the boulders we just climbed. 3) he was freezing his ass off and would you get yourself together, woman.
Once we started going, that's when we noticed the snow. FUCK.
I had had it on good authority from several sources that there would be hot soup and coffee at the top. For the last hour or so of climbing, the only reason I was moving forward is because the theoretical coffee at the top was closer than the coffee at the bottom.
Supoosedly, the mythical sunrise from the top of Fuji is supposed to make the whole climb worthwhile. We didn't get to see it. Instead, the inky black turned navy blue. Then twilighty. Then grey and windy and snowing. Fuck.
At the top of the mountain, there is a torii gate that lets you know you have only another 30-40 minutes to climb.. you're supposed to leave a coin in the cracks. I gave it a good whack with my stick. Fucking Fuji.
But we did make it to the top. After climbing overnight for seven hours, we finally, finally, finally, made it to the top, and... nothing. All of the stations were closed. No coffee. No soup. No heaters. Coleman slipped on the ice amid a volley of swearing that got lost on the howling wind. I just started crying again. We have audio of this-- the camera started recording when Coleman landed on it.
To make matters worse, the descending trail, which is a cakewalk compared to the ascent, was blocked off. Too much snow. AR$D'!&!)$''!!! We had to backtrack over the boulders *sob* and unclimb every step we just took to get off the mountain. What should have taken two hours took us four, since I kept slipping on the boulders and was petrified of breaking something. (It might have been better if I had broken something.. then we could take a helicopter down.)
Thankfully, the next stop was at the Fuji-View Hotel, which was everything that Fuji itself was not. Bonus: We couldn't see the "#D'&_!!! mountain while we recuperated. That will have to be the next post..
---------
* If anyone wants to get me a present for my next birthday, a giant backpack that can compress a few inches would be swell. Better than the wheelie suitcase.
** When the Nine tried to take the pass through the Misty Mountains, a storm blew up Mount Caradhras. Every time they tried to move forward, the mountain would dump more snow and wind and push them back. Eventually the party turned back and went through the mines of Moria. / nerd